Bangkok The city of angles

There is a lot to see in Bangkok-palaces, temples and museums. One visit is never enough, and once entranced by the magic this city exudes, you keep coming back for more.Bewitching, Bewildering. Beguiling, Bangkok is all that and more, It is a city of many shades, many layers. It is the archetypal modern Asian metropolis, with tradition never far away. Every trip here is one of discovery. No one can claim to have seen Bangkok in its entirety. Try ad you might, aspects of it elude you, there is always something that you missed. Founded in 1782, this sprawling capital straddles the Chao Phraya (the river of Kings) and was at one time redials with klongs (canals). The klongs gave way to tarmac just as the unhurried way of life gave way to modernism-in-a hurry, The city is obviously urbanised, yet, the incredibly urbanised veneer belies the traditionally that lies within The City of Angels is a roller coaster ride of surprises-a high rise building and nestled behind it a temple. You are never far from a temple. The best way to get to know the city is to take a walking tour. Arm yourself with a good map, take the traffic in your stride and discover Bangkok.

GRAND PALACE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS

Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew. The Place is large walled complex on the Chao Phraya comprising several buildings that date from the city's founding (in 1782) to the late 19th century. Most striking are the late 18th century Chakri Throne Hall, built at the beginning of the Bangkok Period in traditional Thai style and the Dusit Throne Hall, built in 1882, in a combination of European and Thai styles.

Wander around the Grand Palace complex and take in the frescoes from the Ramakien (The Ramayana). Though it is not the residence of the present monarch (who lives a little distance to the northeast in Chirtlada Palace) its significance today lies in its architecture. Within the Grand Palace is the Coin Pavilion which houses exotic coins and other monetary exchange units used in Thailand since the early 11th century and shouldn't be missed. You might be tempted to skip it, but don't.

Wat Phra Kaew or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha is the other attraction in the Grand Palace complex. It is the resting place of the Emerald Buddha, the most revered statue in Thailand. Exquisitely carved from a block of jade, the Emerald Buddha is the protector of the kingdom.

The palace complex is open every day from 8:30 am to 12 noon and from 1 pm to 3.30 pm. (Admission fee Bht125 also allows you to visit the Vimanmek palace near the Dusit Zoo and the Coin Pavilion.) A word of warning-visitors should be properly dressed: no shorts or sleeveless tops. (Tel: 222-0094, 224-3273).

Sanam Luang-a huge public ground, which is the site of special ceremonies, like the Royal Ploughing Ceremony in May.

Wat Po or the Reclining Buddha. This is one of Bangkok's oldest and largest temples, and was built by King Rama I nearly 200 years ago. Much of Wat Po's fame derives from its gigantic gold-plated reclining Buddha. This unique image, which rests on its right side, is 46 metres long and five metres high. The soles inlaid with mother-of-pearl detail 108 characteristics of Buddha. The temple has the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand and is the centre for the teaching and preservation of traditional Thai medicine including Thai massage. You can study massage here in a weeklong couse. Open daily from 8am to 5 pm. Admission: Bht20. (Tel:222-0933)

While in the area visit the City Pillar Shrine. Just east of the Grand Palace, this graceful temple-like shrine houses the foundation stone of the city (Lak Muang is believed to have the power of granting wishes.

Wat Arun or Temple of the Dawn. It is worth the side trip and can be reached by boat from Tha Thien Pier near Wat Po. The temple predates the city's founding and is located on the West Bank of the river, diagonally opposite the Grand Palace. The Temple of the Dawn served as the Royal Chapel when the Thai capital was located on the West Bank of the river. The most mutable structure of the temple is the Khmer style 79-metre-high Phra Prang pagoda studded with the pieces of broken Chinese porcelain.Despite its name, the most beautiful view of the Temple of the Dawn in at dusk from the Bangkok side of the river. Admission: Bht10 (Tel: 465-5640).

THE TEMPLE TOUR

The Golden Buddha Temple: Wat Trai Mitr or the Temple of the Golden Buddha is near Bangkok's Hualamphong Railway Station on Trainmitr Road and is known for its huge gold Buddha image. The statue, said to be cast in the 14th century weighs 5.5 tones and is around three metres tall. Open daily, from 9am to 5 pm. Admission: Bht 10.

Wat Benchamabophit: Also called the Marble Temple, it is a fine example of modern Thai wat architecture. The temple built at the turn of the century is on Siayut thaya Road, between Chitralada Palace and the National Assembly. The best time to visit Wat Benchambophit is early in the morning when Buddhist monks chat inside the chapel. The interior of the main building is magnificently decorated with cross beams of lacquer and gold. The main building is open to visitors from 7am to 6 pm. Admissions: Bht20.

Wat Suthat: Located on Bamrung Muang Road, Wat sutha took 27 years to build and in famous for its excellent 19th century murals. The temple is a superb showcase of the style that flourished during the reign of King Rama III (1842-1851)-a remarkable fusion of Thai and Chinese influences. Wat Suthat is the only temple in Bangkok without a chide, or stupa. Open daily from 9 am to 5 pm.

The Giant Swing: The towering Giant Swing is in front of Wat Suthat on Bamrung Muang Road. Till the 1930s, it was used in an annual Brahminnical festival that celebrated the coming of the Hindu gods Shiva and Vishnu to the temple. Teams of devotees would swing in reassuringly higher in an attempt to grab a bag of money with their teeth. The Giant Swing today serves simply as a memorial to an old Bangkok custom.

Wat Saket: Also Known as the Golden Mount it is built on an artificial hill Construction of the hill began during the reign of King Rama I (1782-1800) and was completed in the reign of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) today, the Golden Mount is a solid construction surrounded by a circular staircase. It houses relics of Lord Buddha and affords visitors a panoramic view of Bangkok.

Loha prasat: The only iron palace left in the word, 36 metres high with 37 surrounding spires, is located at Wat Ratchanadda on the corner of Ratchdamnoen Klang and Mahachai Road.

Wat Mahathat: This is an old temple on Na Phrathat Road, between Silpakorn University and Thammasat University. Built in the reign of King Rama I, it houses the Maha Chulalongkorn Buddhist University-one of the tow highest seats of learning in the country.

Those interested in Buddhist meditation should visit Section 5, which is the headquarters of Vipassana (insight) meditation in Thailand. Information and lesson in English can usually be arranged depending on the availability of suitable monks. The temple complex is open from 0am to 5 pm. On Buddhist holy days, there are a thriving open air market in the grounds and a comprehensive selection of Thai and a comprehensive selection of Thai medicines, mostly plants and roots, for sale.

THE MUSEUMS HAVE IT

The National Museum. Within walking distance of the Grand Palace, and across Sanam Luang, it is one of the largest and most comprehensive museums in Southeast Asia. The National Museum houses over a thousand artifacts, ranging from Neolithic times to the present. The museum is open every day, except Mondays, Tuesdays, national holidays and substitution for national holidays from 9am to 4 pm. Admission is Bht40. Guided tours commence at 9:30 am from the ticket desk and are held in various languages: English on Wednesdays and Thursdays, French and Japanese tours on Wednesdays, German on Thursdays. (Tel: Thai Human Imagery Museum: At Km 31 on Pinklao-Nakhon Chaisi Road, it is the Thai equivalent of Madame Tossed, s Lifelike figures are displayed in four sections: The Great Buddhist Monks, Former Kings of the Chakri Dynasty, One Side of Thai Life, and Playing Chess. The Museum is open 9am to 5.30 pm weekdays and 8:30 to 6 pm on weakens and public holidays. Admission: Bht140.

The National Arts Gallery: The Gallery is on Chao Fa Road opposite the National Theatre. It exhibits traditional and contemporary works by Thai artists, and is open on all days exempt Mondays and Tuesdays from 9am to 4pm. Admission: Bht10 (Tel: 281-2224, 282-2639)

The Shed of the Royal Barges: Assumes to this one is fun. More a shed than a museum, it is located on Khlong Bangkok Noi not far from the Pinklao Bridge housing Thailand's famous Royal Barges. These barges once served as war vessels, but now leave their shed only for royal and government functions. The most beautiful and well-known of them is Suphanahongse, used by the King for the royal river procession that takes place on the occasion of the Kathin ceremony-a Buddhist tradition of offering robes to monks-in October/November every year. Open from 8:30 am to 5 pm daily. Admission: Bht20. (Tel: 424-0004)

PARK VIEW

Surprisingly Bangkok with all its high-rises and over-crowding has ample space for parks. The closest to the tourist area is Lumpini Park. Named after the birthplace of Buddha, it is one of city's largest parks. A large artificial lake with row boats and paddle boats for hire, well tended gardens and walking paths, make it a great escape from the city with out leaving it. The best time to visit is early in the morning. Get there eary enough and you"ll find enthusiasts practicing T'ai chi. Another very Interest-ing Park is King Rama IX Royal Park. This 200-acre park was opened in 1987 to commemorate His Majesty King Bhumibol's 60th birthday. It coprises a public park, a water park, and extensive botanical gardens. The park is in the phrakanong area, about 22 kms from the city centre. Take bus number 2 or 23 to Soi Udomsuk (Sukhumvit Soi 103) and then a mini-bus to the park. Open daily 6am-6pm. Admission: Bht10.

HISTORIC BUILDINGS

Vimanmek Palace: Also called the Castle in the Clouds, Vimanmek Palace was built by King Rama V and is said to be the largest teakwood building in the world Behind the National Assembly Building this three-story, 81-room palace stands by a picturesque lake in quiet, shady grounds. Besides the intricate architecture, the impressive collection of paintings, objets d'art and royal jewelry are points of in interests. Vimamek Palace is open daily from 9:30 am to 3:15 pm (last tickets at 3 pm). Admission is Bht50 and you may ask for a guide to show you around. (Tel: 281-1569, 280-5928, 281-8166, 282-8683).

Jim Thoumpson's House: This remarkable Thai-style house was the work of an American, Jim Thompson, Who served briefly in the Office of Strategic Services (forerunner of CIA) in Thailand during the World War II. After the war, he returned to Thailand and did much to revive the fortunes of the Thai silk industry. Thompson later disappeared mysteriously in the Malaysian jungles, but the house he built (on Soi Kasemsan 2, opposite the National Stadium on Rama I Road) has been example of traditional Thai architecture and houses Thompson's superb collection of Asian artifacts. Jim Thompson's house is open daily from 9 am to 4:30 pm. Admission is Bht100 and there are always volunteer guides around to explain the collection to visitors. (Tel: 215-0122)

Suan Pakkard Palace : On Si Ayuthaya Road, not far from the Phaya Thai intersection, is the residence of Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Savage, one of Thailand's leading art collectors. In the palace-a complex of five traditional Thai houses overlooking a beautifully kept garden-is a splendid collection of Asian art and antiques. The palace is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 4 pm, and the admission fee is Bht80. (Tel: 245-4934)

ZOO & ANIMAL FARMS

Dusit Zoo: Near the Royal Plaza, the zoo is open from 8am to 6 pm daily. Animals here include Grey kangaroos, Sumatra rhinos, Siamese crocodiles, guars, and deer, and American bisons. There is a pleasant park atmosphere about the zoo. Ponds, cafes, and open-air restaurants, Admission: Bht20. (Tel: 281-2000.)

Snake Farm: Also called the Pasteur Institute it is located at the intersection of Henri Dunant and Rama IV Roads. The institute's large collection of live poisonous snakes has made it a tourist attraction. Slide presentation is at 10:30am and 2pm. Cobras, kraits and vipers are milked of their venom at 11 am and 2:30 am to 12 am and 1 pm to 4 pm on weekdays, On weekends and public holidays, it is open only in the morning Admission: Bht70. (Tel: 252-0161-4 ext.20)

Crocodile Farm: Said to be the world's largest crocodile farm, the Samut Prakarn Crocodile Farm is home to over 30,000 crocodiles. It also features a Dinosaur Museum.

Daily performances at the farm include crocodile wrestling and other animal shows, On weekdays, the show are at one hour intervals from 9am to 4 pm Farm hours 5pm to 6 pm Admission: Bht300. (Tel: 703-4891-5).

Sampharn Elephant Ground and Zoo: This 22-acre farm is a beautiful setting for the different wild animals and thousands of crocodiles living here. See the world's largest white crocodile here. There are several shows featuring elephants and crocodiles. Crocodile skin products are available for sale; The Farm is open from 8am to 6 pm daily. Admission 220 Bht. (Tel: 284-1873,284-0273)

Safari World: This more than 200-acre complex is located in suburban Bangkok, in Minburi district, and is divided into two parts: Safari Park (Admission Bht160) populated by African and Asian animals, and a Marine Park (admission Bht240) with nine animal shows.

Safari world is open from 9am to 4:30 pm daily. Take byes number 26 from Victory Monument to Minburi and from there a mini-bus to Safari World. (Tel: 518-1000-19)

Bangkok Noi Floating Market. There is one floating market in Bangkok for tourists who don't have enough time for the Damnoen Saduak Market. It is at Bangkok Noi canal, behind the Southern Bus Terminal on Barommarajchonnanee Road. Visitors can rent a long-tail boat from Tha Chang Pier (Bht 300 per hour) and tour the market, which shouldn't take more than 20 minutes. Intestine watts line on both sides of the canal. Everyday in the mornings from 5am to 11 am and in the afternoons from 2pm to 5 pm. However, this market experience is no substitute for the Damnoen Saduak Market.

OUTSIDE BANGKOK

Phra Pathom Chedi: The Phra Pathom Chedi (pagoda) is the tallest Buddhist Monument in the world. It towers almost 380 feet into the air and has a golden tiled dome. The Chide is 56 kms from Bangkok and may be reached by bus from the Southern Bus Terminal, or by train from Bangkok Railway Station.

The Floating Market: 80-km southwest from Bangkok and you reach the Floating Market of Damnoen Saduak, one of Thailand's a most popular tourist destination. Damnoen Saduak is the commercial centre of the people living on the banks of the canals that crises-cross this part. From 8 am to 11 am every day, boats laden with all kinds of produce assemble at this point to form the floating market. The best way to experience Damnoen Saduak is to take a long-tail speedboat through the canals. Life is very peaceful along the canals. And you will get a feel of how Thailand was in the past, and still is in the interior Bus Terminal on the Pinklao-Nakhon Chaisi Road.

Ayutthaya: Ayutthaya was the capital of Thailand for four centuries from 1350 until its destruction by the Burmese in 1767. The Ayutthaya of old was a splendid city with ships from man nations sailing up the river from the Gulf of Thailand. The English, Dutch, Spanish, Portuguese and French, all maintained trading posts in Ayutthaya. There was Buddhist a temple. Mosques, and a Catholic cathedral, Diplomatic relations between Ayutthaya and the powerful European trading nations of the time were generally cordial.Bus the Burmese destruction of the city in the late 18th century was so complete, that Ayutthaya was never rebuilt and the king chose to relocate to Bangkok. Today, Ayutthaya is a quiet provincial town, 88 kms mouth of Bangkok. Historic sights at Ayutthaya include the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum, the huge Buddha image-Phra Mongkhon Bophit, and ruins of the former Royal Palace. Train can reach Ayutthaya from Bangkok or by bus from the Northern Bus Terminal. But the best way to get there is by boat, up the river.

Bang-Pa-In Summer Palace: This beautiful palace is 30 kms south of Ayutthaya, and was built mainly during the reign of King Rama V, in contrasting architectural styles - Thai, Chinese, Italian, and Victorian. The most well known building at the Summer Palace is the Thai Pavilion in the center of a small lake, The only building open to visitors is the Chinese-style Wheat Chamrun Palace. Bang-Pa-In can be reached by bus room the Northern Bus Terminal, or by local buses from Ayutthaya. The grounds. Are open daily from 8.30 am to 4.30 pm. Admission: Bht50. (Tel: 222-0094)

Bang Sai Folk Art & Crafts Centre: The riverside folk art and crafts centre in Bang Sai is some 24 kms from the Bang-Pa-In intersection. It is under the Promotion of Supplementary Occupations and Related Techniques (Support) and is a good place to buy fern vine basketry, artificial flowers, woven silks and cottons, dyed silks, wood carvings, Thai dolls, textiles and furniture. Admission: Bht20. Call (035) 366-092 or 225-8165-8 for details.